The Tao of Celestial Nats

There are different kinds of collecting, as there are different ways of appreciating, and enjoying, art and artistry. Often, things are of quite differing aspect to different people: flags to which soldiers about to die once rallied are now often but fashion accessories. Here in Thailand, images of Che Geuvara and Serpico (Al Pacino), attached to pick-up trucks, have become much the same thing. As a kid, I liked stuffed animals. I collected stamps, coins, and later, comic books. Then in 1986 I became intriqued by Hopi Katchina "dolls". About the significance to actual Hopis of many of the Katchinas, I still have but little real knowledge, although they often did seem to have a real message. I bought and sold African carvings, finding myself particularly attracted to some Dogon ones. I grew to love stories of Dogons and Hopis yanking the chains of anthropologists, missionaries and "art dealers". Then I discovered the amazing Burmese Nat. I am very moved by the concept of Nat. It is mythology at its best, and I love mythology. For years now I have also pursued interest in Yao Ceremonial Paintings. I love them as art. What religious meaning they have had for those from who's culture they arose, is vague at best to me. But I find them fantastic, stimulating to imagination, curiosity and even the intellect. Today I made this list: Yao Pantheon Above all are the Three Pure Ones, associated with the "Orion's Belt" stellar constellation; they are: To Ta, Heavenly Worthy of the Virtue of Tao, Yen Si (Leng Si), Promordial Heavenly Worthy, or Original Beginning, who holds the Pill of Immortality, and Leng Pu, Sacred Jewel. These three are, above all, above all, and so do nothing. The Supreme Jade Emperor on High Yu-huang Shang-Ti (or Nyut Hung), and his earthly alter ego who roves our mundane world, Seng Tsiu Master of the Saints, can be considered supreme, being the highest active authority. Celestial Master Marshal Teng (or Tang), Tsiou Yun-suei, the blue warrior, representing wealth and power, is also of high position, but not quite as high. Other Celestial Masters are Marshals Chao, Ma and Chang. T'ai Sui is the God of Time and an Intermediate Tribune in charge of yearly cycles. Lei T'in Sai, the Li Celestial Master (depicted with a sword held in front of him) is another of highest authority. Chia Fin and Tsiep Tin Ling Hung, Lords of 10 Infernal Tribunals (or 10 Tribunals of Hades) are family forebearers. You Tin K'o Chiem is the Palace of the Right's Treasurer Tzou Tin K'o Chien is the Palace of the Left's Treasurer Tin Fo Tei Fo, the Governor of the Skies and Underworld is depicted with a variety of little helpers facing left Tom Tong Hoi Fan, who eats a red triangle (representing a red-hot plowshare), is also considered a major deity. Tsong Tan or Heng Fei is the Administration, the "Whole Altar", a group Yang Kin Sui Fo, depicted with a variety of little helpers facing right, is Governor of this World and the Waters. His Liason Officer rides a white horse in the clouds. Tsiang T'in, or Master Chang, like Lei T'in Sai, holds a magical sword in front of himself (but tends to have muttonchops not a fu-manchu). He's God of the Spirits and Essences, often with a white crane symbol of immortality on his left shoulder. Tai Wai, High Constable Shang Yuan, Hoi Fan Ton, Nyut Hung, Heng Fai and Tsiang T'in Sai are also of the 17, and perhaps the two Treasurers are not... Then there are Kiem Keng, Tzu Tsong and others Chinese Tao divinities include the Master of the Stars of the Central Heavens, The Jade Maidens, the Immortal Masters of Magic, the Treasurers of Wealth and Salaries, the Third Lady Empress Chao (a real empress of the Tang Dynasty), the Castigator of Diseases, and others Right now, aspects of ancient but still-living cultures are hardly high fashion, but I don't care. That there should be one Treasurer for the Right, and another for the Left, somehow seems right to me...

Phibunsongkhram Soldier Museum

Soldier Museum (Pipittaphan Tahan) - east of Doi Jom Tong’s temple, west of the old Sala Klang; go up the road heading south from near the water station (just southeast of the MaeFaLuang bridge to NamLat) and turn left (east) at the T intersection. The museum, which was a house belonging to Plaek Phibunsongkhram and is advertised as his home, is just north by northwest from Wat Ngam Muang. The place is great for an interesting glimpse into how things were here a good lifetime ago. Admission free! Field Marshal Plaek Phibunsongkhram, born Plaek Khittasangkha, was dictator of Siam 1938 - 1944 and 1948 – 1957. He helped overthrow the monarchy in 1932, changed the country’s name to Thailand in 1939, decreed January 1 as the start of the new year, decreed that people must wear shoes and hats outdoors (and women bras), annexed much of the Shan States (in particular, Keng Tung) and is largely responsible for the continuing respect for fascism in the country (Mussolini was a personal hero of his). His father was a Cantonese-speaking Chinese immigrant, but while in power he undermined Chinese power in Thailand, dominated the media and suppressed local languages including Kham Muang and Lao dialects. Photos of him were everywhere. There are four downstairs rooms (plus entry and restroom), one of which is frull of weapons, and 5 upstairs (plus a large landing). Lots of old photos, a TV show about Phibunsongkram to watch (in Thai), period furniture, a “Lanna History Room” and a nice coffee-shop outside.

concrete vs. hempcrete

Concrete (made of cement, rock, sand and water) is the most widely used manmade material in the world, and the second most used product on the planet, after water. More than a cubic yard of concrete is produced for every person on the planet, per year, and 900 kg of CO2 are emitted for the fabrication of every ton of cement (making a ton of cement results in the emission of roughly a ton of CO2 - and in some cases much more). Almost half of concrete made is produced in China. Cement, commonly composed of calcium silicates, requires heating limestone and other ingredients to 2,640 degrees F (1,450° C). That’s done by burning fossil fuels; it’s the 3rd largest source of greenhouse gas pollution in the U.S. (after electricity production and transportation), according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Carbonation, not the bubbles in soft-drinks but a process of carbon absorption concrete participates in, could help fight global warming, a bit, but cement and concrete limit ground absorption of precipitation, raise ambient temperature, reduce plant growth, and stifle life in the underlying soil and general vicinity. Hemp-crete, a versatile building material, can be used for wall insulation, flooring, walls and roofing. Used above ground, it’s fire-proof, water-proof, rot-proof and termite resistant. Hempcrete houses need little cooling or heating to stay comfortable, and thus save lots of energy. A lightweight cement-like material weighing but a 7th of what concrete does, hemp-crete has positive acoustic properties (absorbing sound), buffers both temperature and humidity, prevents mould growth, makes the insides of buildings not only comfortable and healthy, but low-maintenance. It forms a hard wall surface yet is vapor permeable and so helps reduce humidity. It not only prevents condensation, but is cost saving through power conservation. It’s 3 times more resistant to cracking from earthquakes than regular concrete. It’s an insulating infill between the frame members rather than a structural element (all loads are carried by internal framing, wood stud framing being the most common), but tends to reduce racking.

The growing international importance to endemic Southeast Asian corruption.
by Joel J. Barlow

Many places in Thailand, including Prachinburi, Pitsanulok, Ayudtaya, Petchabun, Muang Nong Bua Lam Phu and MaeSuay, ChiangRai, are “San” shrines (spirit residences) for King Naresuan the Great (Somdet Pra Naresuan Maharat; สมเด็จพระนเรศวรมหาราช or Somdet Phra Sanphet II, สมเด็จพระสรรเพชญ์ที่ 2). From the age of 20, Naresuan (then Pra Naret) participated in 29 military campaigns with major battles between large armies, and as King, busy conquering, spent only 2 years in his capital. A map at his MaeSuay shrine shows Naresuan to have controlled all of Cambodia and Laos, parts of Western Vietnam, southern Burma to the Irrawaddi and most of the Shan States, west past the Salween and north to Hsenwi, where the Shawbwa was a friend from childhood. This map is fanciful fabrication.
In a time of great martial instability, Pra Naret was able to quickly raise armies and defeat other armies. This had nothing to do with administering a country, but everything to do with re-establishing one of the greatest port-trading communities on the world. Trade made might, Lanna was no more, and mainland Southeast Asia was becoming a busier, more international area. The idea of a country had only started to take root; the idea of Siam, as opposed to Ayudtaya, was equally new. At the time, international borders simply did not exist (feudal obligations did). The idea of restoring some former Siamese glory from that time is but myth, wishful thinking, or delusion, but the existence of these shrines testifies to its active continuance.
At the shrines are hundreds of plaster-cast roosters, a symbol memorializing a story of Pra Naret beating the Burmese Crown Prince at a fighting cock contest: “Not only can this cock champion a money bet, it can also fight for kingdoms,” Pra Naret is said to have said.
Naresuan (the ‘Black Prince, พระองค์ดำ) started rebuilding recently destroyed Ayudtaya about 1580; with powerful Dutch and British traders joining Arab, Indian, Persian, Japanese, Chinese, Spanish and French ones, it had been, and would soon again be, the busiest port in Southeast Asia. Naresuan captured Siamreap, Battambang and other important Cambodian cities, as King Boromoraja of Cambodia had invaded Siam a year after Bayinnaung (Burengnong) sacked Ayudtaya. Burengnong had annexed ChiangMai and the rest of Lanna in 1556, invaded Ayudtaya in 1563, took most of it 1564, and finally sacked the city of over a million in 1569.
In 1594, and Cambodia became a vassal state of Siam, ruled by its own prince, Soryopor (who became Barom Reachea IV). Naresuan left a Siamese army there, but it was driven out by Rama Chungprey in 1595. Cambodia wasn’t annexed, only paralyzed - so that Naresuan could deal with his Burmese arch-enemies without danger at his back; Siam needed ports on the Indian Ocean, so in 1593, Naresuan took Tavoy and Tenasserim. He then aided a successful Mon rebellion from Moulmein, took Martaban, and marched on Toungoo. But his successes ended there. A pustule, most likely of smallpox, suppurated, and he died in 1605. For the brief period that Naresuan was master of much of Cambodia and some of southern Burma, his rule over Ayudtaya’s (Siam’s) north wasn’t yet established.
His successor Egatosrost (Ekat’otsarat, aka Ekathotsarot the White, Naret’s younger brother) abandoned Siamese efforts in the Shan States. In 1610 Ekat’otsarat was succeeded by Int’araja (“The Just”). Local Japanese sacked Ayudtaya, while the King of LuangPrabang attempted to come to their aid. Order was restored in 1612, but the Burmese soon recovered Moulmein and Tavoy. Laotian kings and continued to rule throughout. The empire of Naresuan as depicted by the MaeSuay map never existed.
Why is this ancient history of significance? Mostly because of the immense popularity of small computerized communication devices.
Once again there’s a glut of drugs in Thailand. Only this time, men in uniform who aren’t just the usual lowly hired mules (usually poor tribal folk) are getting caught. Whether any of them actually serve much in the way of time, or catch much else in the way of punishment, is hardly of importance. That once again, there are significantly armed competitors is (back in the 50s to early 60s, Thai military and police were that). Now, who is directing what is hardly clear.
A main reason for the new situation is the “opening up” of Myanmar (an euphemism, to be sure). In the northern areas, especially, is much untapped mineral wealth. But locals, with a long history of brutal, ruthless and completely conscience-free exploitation of jade, are wary (to put it mildly). The Kachin (not a tribe, but an amalgamation of peoples) know that they are hardly likely to benefit from mining. Others know that mining there could elevate them onto the map of real global wealth.
So, Chinese triads (from China, Thailand and perhaps elsewhere), corrupt governments of the region, corrupt men in uniform of high rank, secret agents for global mega-corps and a few significant others hardly wise to mention are vying for position, and position means control of private armies. Which demands lots of ready cash, arms and experienced men, in place to protect mining operations when they at last can begin. And active drug marketing as the best route to efficiently and effectively accomplish that.
Conspiracy theory? Sure. So what. To deny conspiracy is about as wise as to deny science. It is happening, with results of jails full of inexplicable varieties of folk: pretty young girls, middle-aged peasants with mysterious but ample financial backing, foreigners, and occasionally even the type of person hardly ever imprisoned around here before (except for reasons of political activism): the educated, connected and financially competent. Illegal casinos are booming, as is export of stolen vehicles from Thailand to Myanmar. Many were but “mules” transporting contraband to get some otherwise very difficult to obtain money, working for one uniformed faction or another then caught by a rival faction. The Burmese regime continues to kill in Kachin State, while meanwhile adverts for novice business correspondents to write articles in English for Burmese periodicals appear on Facebook (wanna buy a bridge?). Daw Aung San Suu Chi has helped northerners fight some mining, but the potential money will clearly match what is there to fight it; looks to me a bit like the “Blood diamonds” thing.
Oh my but it is truly scary. The lust for wealth, power and serious involvement in international business eclipses all sense. In Laos, a government opposed to modern mercantile, materialistic greed has caused there to be no animal life left to be seen - all killed by a very hungry populace. By April, the air here in northern Thailand will be almost unbreathable again, due to burning fields and now even mountaintops, for increased corn crops. And the Thai government will be going broke from its populist rice pledging scheme (the warehouses are full of rotting rice, while businessmen buy rice from neighboring countries for export). Oh my but it is sad.
As long as the Western mad lust of gluttony, cheap WallMart crap and angry intoxication remains, the “Third World” will become an increasing danger to that Western society, so dependent on sweatshop labor, exploitation of our Earth’s underground (well, and above-ground) wealth, and the use of force.
There are those with power who dream of a Southeast Asian EU-type amalgamation, of Bangkok-centered control over all that Naresuan ever had power over, and even power and influence sufficient to rival that of China and the Chinese. But it is more fighting over a scrap-heap than planning for a viable future. As I write, trucks are carrying dirt from our Himalayan foothills to cover other dirt as just another real-estate bubble prepares to burst, when Bangkok people attempting to flee the dangers of that morass find out that there simply won’t be enough income here for them. The US and European economies may receive a short-term fix, but it simply can’t be sufficient for all the world’s people to have cars, refrigerators and rare-earth powered communication devices. Naresuan tried to grab more than he could keep or use; we’re doing it too.

Not as bad as GMOs, but...

Once again there’s a glut of drugs in Thailand. Only this time, men in uniform who aren’t just the usual lowly hired mules (usually tribesmen) are getting caught. Whether any of them actually serve much in the way of time, or catch much else in the way of punishment, is hardly of importance. That once again, there are significantly armed competitors is (back in the 50s to early 60s, Thai military and police were that). Now, who is directing what is hardly clear.
A main reason for the new situation is the “opening up” of Myanmar (an euphemism, to be sure). In the northern areas, especially, is much untapped mineral wealth. But locals, with a long history of brutal, ruthless and completely conscience-free exploitation of jade, are wary (to put it mildly). The Kachin (not a tribe, but an amalgamation of peoples) know that they are hardly likely to benefit from mining. Others know that mining there could elevate them onto the map of real global wealth.
So, Chinese triads (from China, Thailand and perhaps elsewhere), corrupt governments of the region, corrupt men in uniform of high rank, secret agents for global mega-corps and a few significant others hardly wise to mention are vying for position, and position means control of private armies. Which demands lots of ready cash, arms and experienced men, in place to protect mining operations when they at last can begin. And active drug marketing as the best route to efficiently and effectively accomplish that.
Conspiracy theory? Sure. So what. To deny conspiracy is about as wise as to deny science. It is happening, with results of jails full of inexplicable varieties of folk: pretty young girls, middle-aged peasants with mysterious but ample financial backing, foreigners, and occasionally even the type of person hardly ever imprisoned around here before (except for reasons of political activism): the educated, connected and financially competent. Illegal casinos are booming, as is export of stolen vehicles from Thailand to Myanmar. Fifteen years ago, college girls here in ChiangRai often lived 7 or 8 to a room; now they rent small houses (and certainly not in groups half that large), while their parents vociferously complain of economic oppression. The Burmese regime continues to kill in Kachin State, while meanwhile adverts for novice business correspondents to write articles in English for Burmese periodicals appear on Facebook (wanna buy a bridge?).
Oh my but it is scary. The lust for wealth, power and serious involvement in international business eclipses all sense, while in Laos, there is no animal life to be seen, all killed by a very hungry populace. In two more months the air here will be almost unbreathable due to burning for increased corn crops, and the Thai government will be going broke from its populist rice pledging scheme (the warehouses are full of rotting rice, while businessmen buy rice from neighboring countries for export). Oh my but it is sad.

Militant dreams of restoring lost glory

In Prachinburi, Pitsanulok, Ayudtaya, Petchabun, Muang Nong Bua Lam Phu and MaeSuay, ChiangRai (surely among other places too), are “San” shrines (spirit residences) for King Naresuan the Great (Somdet Pra Naresuan Maharat; สมเด็จพระนเรศวรมหาราช or Somdet Phra Sanphet II, สมเด็จพระสรรเพชญ์ที่ 2). From the age of 20, Naresuan (then Pra Naret) participated in 29 military campaigns with major battles between large armies. Altogether, as King he spent only 2 years in his capital. A map at the MaeSuay shrine shows Naresuan to have controlled all of Cambodia and Laos, parts of Western Vietnam, southern Burma to the Irrawaddi and most of the Shan States, west past the Salween and north to Hsenwi, where the Shawbwa was a friend from childhood. This is fabrication.

In a time of great martial instability, Pra Naret was able to quickly raise armies and defeat other armies. This had nothing to do with administering a country, but everything to do with re-establishing one of the greatest port-trading communities on the world. Trade made might, Lanna was no more, and mainland Southeast Asia was becoming a busier, more international area. The idea of a country had only started to take root; the idea of Siam, as opposed to Ayudtaya, was equally new. At the time, international borders simply did not exist (feudal obligations did). The idea of restoring some former Siamese glory from that time is but myth, wishful thinking, or delusion, but the existence of these shrines testifies to its active continuance. At the shrines are lots and lots of plaster roosters, in memory of a story of Pra Naret beating the Burmese Crown Prince at a contest of fighting cocks: "Not only can this cock champion a money bet, it can also fight for kingdoms" Pra Naret is said to have said.

Naresuan (the ‘Black Prince, พระองค์ดำ) is said to have started rebuilding Ayudthaya about 1580, 10 years before the beginning of his reign. With powerful Dutch and British traders (in addition to Arabs, Indians, Persians, Japanese, Chinese, Spaniards and French ones) coming, it had been an important entrepot; it was soon to be the busiest port in Southeast Asia. A century away from being the world's largest city at over a million inhabitants, Ayudtayaq needed more than city walls; it needed the buffering territory of surrounding tributary states. It needed to not be just a city-state, but the center of Siam. Naresuan captured Siamreap, Battambang and other important Cambodian cities (the Angkor Thom area had already degenerated and become uninhabitable), as King Boromoraja of Cambodia had invaded Siam a year after Bayinnaung (Burengnong) sacked Ayudtaya (he’d annexed ChiangMai and Lanna in 1556, invaded Ayudtaya in 1563, took most of it 1564, and finally sacked the city in 1569). In 1594, and Cambodia became a vassal state of Siam, ruled by its own prince, Soryopor, who became Barom Reachea IV. Naresuan left an army in Cambodia, but it was driven out by Rama Chungprey the very next year. Cambodia hadn't been annexed, only paralyzed, so that Naresuan could deal with his Burmese arch-enemies without danger at his back. Siam needed ports on the Indian Ocean, so in 1593, Naresuan took Tavoy and Tenasserim. He then aided a successful Mon rebellion from Moulmein, took Martaban, and marched on Toungoo. But his successes ended there. A pustule, most likely of smallpox, suppurated, and he died in 1605. His successor Egatosrost (Ekat’otsarat, aka Ekathotsarot the White, Naret’s younger brother) abandoned Siamese efforts in the Shan States. In 1610 Ekat’otsarat was succeeded by Int’araja (“The Just”). Local Japanese rose up and sacked Ayudtaya, while the King of LuangPrabang attempted to come to their aid. Peace was restored in 1612, but the Burmese soon recovered Moulmein and Tavoy. Laotian kings had continued to rule throughout. The map of a gigantic Siam is but wishful thinking, like the plaster chickens purchased to bring to the purchaser wealth, gold and good fortune.

The future now

There’s been talk in government circles of turning ChiangRai into a “Green City”. Right now it seems more likely to turn into just another mean city. ChiangRai has been an unusually successful mix of cultures, with a minimum of hatred and violence. Her Royal Highness Princess Srinagarindra, the Princess Mother Somdet Ya “MaeFahLuang” contributed greatly to this success. Now new guidance is needed, but lacking. ChiangRai’s roads can’t handle the increased traffic they now try to bear, smoke from burned refuse can no longer dissipate, and sustainable traditional ways of life have almost completely given way to the murderous greed killing modern human society and our oceans, if not the entire planet. While the lessons of history and the wise teachings of Thailand’s revered King are all too commonly ignored, bad habits become increasingly the norm. While there are now more prisoners than space for them, desperate hot hearts are becoming increasingly common. Once again, the only way many residents of the border hills see to get money they feel need for is through trafficking in drugs. But as that traffic is controlled by institutionalized (often uniformed) powers, such hopes are little more than illusion. The prisons, like the roads, and also the rivers, can no longer bear all that is being pushed into them. In this, perhaps ChiangRai is a good metaphor for the whole country. Thailand avoided the curse of colonization by diplomatically offering the appearance of adherence to norms developed in a newly industrialized “West”. But much of what was put in place is now proving to have become inoperative. Thailand must choose between acting as a staging base for the rape of its neighbor with the longest common border, Myanmar, by soulless business, or caring for her people. The alternatives are clear. That there is the political will to choose them is not. But unless rot is cut from the system, there will soon be no system, not even an alternate one. Why perpetrate the misconception that sitting in an oversized pickup truck is happiness? Thailand needs to be proving to itself and the world that its traditional values of community sharing, respect for elders, Buddhist non-materialism and willingness to absorb from elsewhere while staying independent still have meaning and merit. The path to self-immolation most of the modern world is clearly on need not be the way here. There’s a better way than to believe in business acumen as a guiding light. If it seems cliché to tout the benefits hemp could bring, perhaps that’s because of the obvious truth involved. Southeast Asians have been loath to follow the absurd Western copyright dictates - why, after so long, need Mickey and Minnie Mouse receive the forceful, impositional “protection” they do? Only because Western business interests remain in a colonial mindset. Thais need to think for themselves! And perhaps first by asking, what new ideas has Nai Taksin provided in the last couple of years? Mega-projects for flood control? Clearly hemp to replace lost forests would do much more, much better. More solar panel utilization would be beneficial too, as would less reliance on plastics. Can’t government help, instead of manipulate, coerce and toady to foreign interests? We all love having gas-powered vehicles, but we’re going to have to pay more to use them. We like convenience, but must accept that we can’t have everything. If we don’t do more to protect nature and biodiversity, well, again, that it sounds cliché is because it’s so true – we lose the good things we have through selfish short-sightedness. One way or another, the days of rampant self-indulgence are ending. Thailand, and ASEAN, can lead, or follow into the grave.